Friday, November 29, 2013

Time Travel t a Parallel Universe: RE-ENTRY


After twenty hours of travel and 48 hours without sleep,  I have landed in what feels like a parallel universe. It looks like a place I remember: there are people, cars, paved roads – places I recall.  I’m supposed to know this place, but it feels alien.  Describing this sense of disconnected-ness, a friend related it to time-travel and that fits except I’ve crossed cultures in the process.   Having sold my house, I am “homeless,” in a way that is both exhilarating and unsettling.  I’m incredibly blessed to have friends who have taken me into their beautiful and extremely luxurious home.  I feel lke Alice in Wonderland must have felt when she fell down the rabbit hole. It’s a strange new world: soft bed, no  mosquito net, down pillows and comforter, a bath TUB, a toilet! More importantly a toilet that doesn’t require a two-foot long mingling stick to flush …  and fridge that works full time and is stocked with things like cheese and pickles and… and… and.  I went to wash clothes and discovered twin stainless steel monoliths facing me. Adorned with control panel rivalling that of a space shuttle, blinking blue lights with 20 possible selections of how to wash I wondered it they might also orbit. Does it speak?  Well – not yet anyway.

Next, there is the car and I am allowed t drive it.  Ah! no key but a button that begs pushing. I like keys.  They make me feel safe and grounded.  Well – get over it.  This car is push button and when I do (push the button) my seat glides silently and ever-so-smoothly into exactly the right position and the car hums to into action.  Windshield wipers think for themselves and come on when it begins to sprinkle, mysteriously speeding-up and slowing-down to match both rain intensity and car speed.  Said car locks with a mere swipe of the finger…    I have to check the back seat door to convince myself it’s locked, because if I touch the driver’s door, it unlocks and we have to start the verification process all over again.  So-long to my long-standing compulsion to double check the door by pulling on it.  Foiled again.  Last night I discovered that the headlights also have a mind of their own – I had them on bright at one point and they dimmed when I was at a stoplight.

Jet lag and realty shock play strange games with the mind.  I lose things or forget where I put them moment to moment.  The storage locker I so carefully organized before I left was not quite as well ordered as I remembered.  The boxes I thought were in front so I could access them were “not there.”  Had to completely unload an 8x10 storage room to discover that a box of critical items as far from the front as they could be:  back wall – half way up.  Now I have found most of my clothes, but keep losing them in the room I’m in because—well just because.  Yesterday, I was late getting somewhere because I’d lost my underwear by putting it in alogical place that was SO logical  I couldn’t find it in my mental fog.  So now I’ve relocated the essentials  - for the moment.   I’m sure they are moving themselves around in the night.  At any rate, SOMETHING is waking me at 3:30 in the morning.  It’s the biorhythm thing and it sucks. 

I have eaten my way into the new world: Mexican food, BBQ, toast made in a real-honest-to god toaster, eggs with yellow yolks, cheese, pickles, Torche’s tacos. There are stripes down the road, stop signs and red-lights and people know what to do with them! There is a startling absence of cows, chickens and goats on the road – where are they? Bicycles don’t have live chickens handing from the handlebars and waiting to be sold.

Today it’s winter.  Last week it was summer and will be again soon, if it doesn’t snow. This must be Austin…

To exacerbate matters, I’ve suddenly become very aware of my age…  In Uganda it is revered – since most people don’t even this long!   I’ve now crossed the threshold where I can no longer pretend: I have signed up for Medicare and Social Security.  Oh what a event.  And you thought 30 was a threshold!  Well – well is all I can say.   I’ve navigated the health care minefield and am glad to say I found it to be curiously devoid of explosives.

Melt-downs are reducing in frequency.  It’s a new world for a stubbornly independent woman of a certain age to suddenly become dependent on friends for shelter, transportation and good will.  And fortunately for me I have an abundance of saints in my life who are sharing their lives, resources and especially their love and good will with me.  This makes me even more exquisitely aware of the contrast of my life here and that of my friends back in Uganda.  In Uganda, I was constantly infused with a deep sense of gratitude for “all that I have.”     All it took was stepping off the plane in the States, to instantly be sucked into the mode of awareness of “what I don’t have.”  All this in the face of the incredible generosity of friends:  I am aware that I have no job, no house, no car.  And yet, it is the very absence of those things that affords me the libert to create a new chapter.  My goal is to once again opt for a simpler life-style – one consciously chosen, not just fallen into as a result of stepping into the mainstream.  So, I’m taking some time this time – to reconnect with my friends and family and explore options.  My kids are grown and happy and self-reliant on their own paths.  So – the up side of “no job, no house, no husband” is incredible freedom to create and that is my next adventure.

It may not be Africa, but I hope it will stay fresh.  I hope to continue to be wide-eyed with discoveries and it is my full-intention to age-backwards.   One of my sons still tells his friends: “My parents are still trying to figure out what they want to be when they grow up!”    And so on that note…   I don’t know if people will be interested in the next chapter, but since even I don’t know what that will be – maybe there will be something worth reporting but I sure hope so.

Thanksgiving:  Yesterday – what a day – and so many things, foods, people and circumstances for which to be thankful.  And I am – I simply have not enough time, space or words to convey the true magnitude of this gratitude that overwhelms me to the point of tears some moments. My hosts are both professional chefs and the experience would have been stunning in any case, but coming from Uganda – it was a spiritual, orgasmic,  full-body-mind-spirit indulgence extraordinaire. 

What a season to enter upon re-entry: embarrassment of riches, of friends, opportunities and open doors.

The adventure continues but in a totally different way – rediscovering the “ordinary.”  And so may you rediscovery the ordinary to live it in a non-ordinary way… because it’s only ordinary here.  May your days be filled with tingling excitement and a sense of anticipation for moments as they unfold to remind you of the blessings in each breath.

Saturday, November 9, 2013

The Last Mango Tree in Entebbe?


It’s the last day in Uganda.  “How to spend it,” was my first question – now beginning to be fully aware and a little panicked that I’ve missed something!  Well – of course I have – but most of it is too late to capture now – so I’ll have t be satisfied with small bits.  First things first – coffee! Good coffee – espresso with full-cream milk.  Do some leisurely reading since the slow rain outside has given me permission.   Lake Victoria—one of the world’s largest lakes—produces its own weather system and the sky is leaking from ominous slate grey clouds.  Hornbills are honking like Howler Monkeys. The day is off to a sloooow start – and it suits me.

Check out time is 10:00 and they’ve given me 30 minutes of grace time all of which has been lost as I have my head buried in Nevada Barr mystery coughed up by the PCV library when I offered it Bloodline in exchange.

Thinking through how I will manage a shower and a change of clothes with no room to lounge in between now and 8:30 PM when I have to leave for the airport—I  pack a confusing array of possibilities and discover that the rain has mellowed to a light sprinkle.  I zip up bags , leave them in a corner and head out to the zoo and 30 minute walk away.

Arriving at the zoo on the shore of Lake Victoria, I notice an even more ominous cloud line hugging the horizon and hope I will at least a) beat the huge and eager group of primary school kids trying to behave so they can get into the zoo and b) visit the chimps before it starts raining again.  The kids are pretty cute—little ones, all decked out in their red school shirts and arranged in a shuffling group with littlest ones in front and taller ones toward the back.  So I pick up the pace and make it just in time.

Wandering through the place, I’m reminded again of our first visit and how disappointed I was in what it had to offer and now appreciating the rather casual approach of “housing” animals in natural and unpretentious habitat areas with motes of water and minimal fencing.  I pass the zebras and Boks and some funny looking beared deer and hear a crowd of kids and chimps screeching.  Hard to tell which is which and who is exciting whom.  I found a group of adults (chimps that is) scattered on the other side of the water, just having been fed and protectively guarding their own hordes of fruit.  One large male teetering at the water’s edge (they HATE water) caught my attention as he tries to puzzle out how to retrieve a fat red apple bobbing up and down about 10 feet out of reach.

Not to be deterred or denied his treat, he grabs a piece of bamboo and starts slapping at the apple and pulling the bamboo toward him.  Not working…  He surveys the possibilities and latches onto a dead branch and carefully pulls the apple to the edge and chows down. Finishing that one, he heads for another – starting again with bamboo, throwing that one down and examines a waterlogged piece of wood—discarding it. Searching for the last tool that worked he picked the branch again and I’m thinkin’ this is a pretty clever chimp. I wonder about the evolutionary chain…

Later:  now back at the motel having hiked back in a sprinkling rain and sitting under a Mango tree with branches loaded with fist size fruit that’ll be ready for the picking in about a month.   The rain is back – and I want a nap – but figure there will be 20 or so hours of that. My feet have not seen anything but sandals in two years and are not happy with being shoved back into “real shoes.” I’ve had to leave the sandals behind – they were good soldiers – repaired numerous times to hold together until…. 

We are now at “until” and I had room for two pairs of shoes and those have to accommodate fall and winter weather.  So one box of Band-Aids and a roll of medical tape later I’m hoping that I can get to Austin without having to go altogether barefoot because of all the blisters. 


S-i-x    m-o-r-e    h-o-u-r-s


Now FOUR hours later and several more chapters of Nevada Barr,  I have been graced with an unoccupied room in which to shower.  Bless these lovely girls who have taken mercy on me.  I am filled with African Tea—a comforting mixture of whole milk boiled with fresh ginger and a bay leaf, then poured over tea bags.  Heavenly.

By the time you read this I’ll be tucked into seat 21K on my way to Brussels and dreaming of Mexican food but eating airplane food – better these days than it used to be.  Hoping for something tasty and some movies I’ve never seen.  well – that last part shouldn’t be hard…

Friday, November 8, 2013

Almost.....

Well - I'm almost there - relatively speaking.  After 28 months, what's another  two days? Right?  Left Gulu amid a flurry of last minute activity - two days of goodbyes, giving things away, packing and re-packing.  Had a small congratulations party for Peter for finishing his PLE exams and blessedly got a ride to Kampala and avoided the bus!  Made it in a record 6 hours!

The Saturday before leaving my LABE friends gave me a beautiful going away party that was so thoughtfully put together I was deeply honored and moved.   They are dear friends and it's not real yet that I won't see them again - unless I somehow made it back to Uganda...  It is completely surreal to think that I've created a life here and in two days life will shift dramatically and I'll have running water and lights on demand, not to mention all the hubbub that goes with re-entry and the excitement of seeing old friends.  I'm excited to be coming home but part of my heart will always be here. And I think that's as it should be.

There have been many re-turns to places I started.  My going-away party was at Happy Nest Motel, where I stayed when I first came to site visit 27 month ago.  And on the way out I'm saying in the same room, in the same hotel in Entebbe where the kids and I stayed when they came to visit.  When I walked in, the staff said "welcome back," and I was surprised they remembered.  But that's the way Ugandans are -   they remember.  One night here to unwind after two days of signing out at PC HQ.

I've yet to process all this. I've simply been going through check lists to get everything in order before leaving.   That's a bit frustrating, because I know some of that  has numbed me from being fully present with people I am leaving.  Some, no doubt, was self-protection, because leaving here feels enormous and while there are frustrations I will not miss, there is gentleness,  authenticity and caring that tug at the heart..  Hopefully, I can hold on to some of that in the way I live life in a more complicated world.  

I feel like I'll have to learn to speak regular English again - I've been speaking Uganglish for so  long.  So those of you who will see me in the flesh, just bear with me when I ask, "What food is there,"   And "He didn't do what?  and... and... and...   And kindly remind me I don't have to take everything I own with me when I walk out the door - no need for TP, hand sanitizer, umbrella, flashlight,  book (for waiting...) etc.

Re: return time: enough people have indicated I'm coming home on Saturday - I actually had to check my ticket.  I AM flying OUT on Saturday midnight, but won't arrive for another 20 hours: Uganda - Brussels - Newark - Austin:  at 6:18 SUNDAY United.  

OK - I'm rambling, rather distracted,  mentally cluttered and W-A-I-T-I-N-G.   Time to close.

Texas here I come! Almost...