Bright spots

Written a week ago....  How time creeps along.

The Venus transit of the sun on June 5^th  was supposed to cause all manner of angst and inner turmoil.  Well – it would need stand in line.  I doubt I would notice in the ambient field of angst that characterizes this journey. How would one distinguish among the plethora of other possibilities: what I ate last nigh, weekly Mefloquin anti-malarial dose, impending travel, etc. 

However there have been bright spots and yesterday was one of those.  When I wake up feeling random sadness that I often feel here, I put on my “big girl panties” and do a little meditation and set my intention to be happy and have a fulfilling day – or at least interesting.   Yesterday started with the Marching Band in full dress uniform preparing for an event.  So I stood and let the enthusiasm of their music wash over me.    The megawatt smile of one young woman drummer lit up the place.  Off to a good start!

Walking into work I received the usual good natured “Bodo-Boda?  taunts and smiles from the Boda group  that knows I don’t ride.  I miss them when they are not there – it’s become a ritual greeting.

Later I received a fabulous box of good coffee, chocolates and other goodies from Evie and when I arrived back at the office after lunch (worked most of the day out the office – to access electricity and internet) my nice soft, contoured chair had been delivered!  Since Ive been using a straight-back un-padded wooden straight-jacket-sort-of-chair all this time, this is a huge deal to have something more user-friendly! Miracles abound. Even got a packet of sewing needles from the Director.  There were other little treasures that appeared through the day, but what was so lovely were the number of people who shouted out greetings and stopped to talk.  Periodically there are sweet reminders that I am part of this community and well received.  I loaned a good mystery to a waiter in the Coffee Hut and even recognized the smiling-drummer (Helen) somewhere else in town and we chatted.  This doesn’t seem big, unless you’re HERE and are in a constant state of embarrassment owing to the fact  of being unable to distinguish one new person from another.  The subtle differences that we use in the States are somehow confounded by Ugandan's shared characteristics.    It’s useful to note that to them, all Munus look alike:  all glaringly white, funny hair, paler eyes.  The distinguishing characteristics of blue or green or brown eyes and different hair color just don’t make the short list.  Yes - all us white folks look alike...

I’ve been reading an excerpt on Uganda from a book by Richard Dowden, Africa: Altered States, Ordinary Miracles  and at the very least I am realizing that my experiences and insights are in sync – at least in large part – with those felt by a person with a lot more experience with Africa and Uganda than mine.  So, when I feel out of place, frustrated , angry and out-of-step while also feeling humbled by the grace and generosity of spirit I experience daily from Ugandans here – I am a bit relieved to discover I’m not totally screwed up - just living in a state of constant contradictions.

Last Saturday, when I performed my ritual trip to the cuk madit (main market) to get produce, salt and a random assortment of goods, I  met a woman my friend Karla had met the week before and  who had given her a whole bag full of free goodies, because it was their first meeting. Mary Ester is about my age and has a little shop there.  She sits outside the entrance shared with an isle narrowed by huge stalks of Matoke (think green bananas/plantains).    Before realizing she was the same woman, I greeted her in Acholi, asked her name and as we chatted I realized the connection.     The items she gave Karla were not expensive by American standards, but a really significant expense for an Acholi shop keeper.  She gave them as an act of new-friendship and wouldn’t take no for an answer.  To refuse would have wounded her.    So when I met Mary Ester, I wanted to purchase something from her shop.    I started with salt, the only thing I really needed but she asked me what else I might need.  Before I left, she had gifted me a large package of spaghetti. Again, it was her way of honoring the meeting of a new friend.  It was also very good business!  I walked out having purchased a 10 pack of toilet paper as a thank you. 

Other produce sellers are always giving us a little extra - 5 tomatoes for the price of 4, an extra scoop of rice, another onion.    This is a “fixed price” market for the most part,  so this is what in Louisiana would be called Laignaippe – extra.  This in a culture where the average daily income is somewhere around 3,000 shillings  (25,000 sh = $10)  - to give away 2000 shillings  (Mary Ester)  of goods means most of a day’s wage.   I don't recall this ever happening in Safeway or Whole Foods.  

On the communication front, there are rituals here that slow things down, but must be honored regardless of circumstance.  To circumvent ritual for the sake of expediency and dive directly into a conversation by stating the purpose of the visit or the problem at hand would not only be rude, but ultimately counter-productive.  Moving forward requires that the social be acknowledged first.  One greets:    "How was the night? Ah - the night was good.  And you - did you sleep well?  Yes – and you?  How are the people at your home?  Fine. Thank you.  How are your people?" And so on.   It is rude not to stand, greet, shake hands, ask and answer many variations of greetings and offer a chair regardless of how long a person is staying or the purpose of their visit.  Many Apwoyos (thank you, hello, you're welcome) , mabers (good) , ayas (yes, or your greeting was received, I have heard you, etc) later, one may venture into the cause of the visit.   But one ALWAYS starts with the good first.  You would only acknowledge a problem or difficulty later.     To alter that would create problems you don’t need.  Even in the police station, where issues abound, greeting and nicities precede any inquiry.

Onward – after yesterday’s lovely day, a night of electricity and rain, snacking on Evie’s chocolate macaroons and reading more of a good mystery, I ventured into work this morning to find that I am to represent LABE in a quarterly meeting.  I don’t like last minute things like this and not being fully prepared.  This is clearly one of my life lessons and I’m getting the opportunity to practice things being less than in perfect order.  (Hysterical laughter...)   I waited around to get some printed updates (printer not working as planned) and wandered down to the place of the meeting which was to start somewhere between 9AM and 10AM.  I arrived at 9:35 to an empty building.  It is now 10:35 and two people have arrived.  You are beginning to understand why I have read 60 books already and others have read more.  But I didn’t bring a book, so I am blogging and working.

I’m moving onto a Power Point Project and writing an article for the Human Rights Focus Quarterly publication that I researched most of yesterday.  Thank you God for computers,  internet access  and - at least this month - beautiful weather.