Place of the Turtles - Akumal

 It's closing in on my last week in paradise and I'm grasping at ways to hold these times close and be present.  Surrounded by tourism as much of Yucatan is, sometimes I forget to simply close out the rest of the world and see where I'm standing. 

It's easy to get caught up in "what should I do next" and "what will I be sorry I didn't do when I look back." As in the rest of life, it can be a challenge to be fully present and filter out the background chatter. And on a tour, there's plenty of chatter. Last week I went on a snorkeling tour to Cozumel, supposedly the best-of-the-best in the Costa Maya.   As tours go, it was more relaxed than some, but still constrained. Sadly, there are so many tours and so much boat activity there, the reefs are dying and it was disappointing.  What is even worse is the fact that this area's economy depends on such activities and that very activity, badly handled is killing the reefs.    But there's the sense of "I'm HERE! I need to do it all." So I'm still glad I went and know what's there, but it was a reminder that you don't have to be IN the water, to be bowled over by what there is to see. 

Here, there is so much natural beauty about the sea it's just mind boggling.  I usually don't take my camera, because then I'm always taking a step back to try to get the perfect shop.  But then I realize, I don't have any pictures. So a few days ago I took a walk with my camera to capture my morning walk and here it is. 

I'm on the north end of the beach, the tail-end of the tourist district and it's pretty tranquil. That's a left turn when I get the sand and it's a world apart from what I see if I turn right where there are wall-to-wall hotels, bodies, beech chairs and music.  My end is more populated by the locals fishing, couples walking hand-in-hand and sand-covered toddlers squealing with delight.   Dogs cavorting in the surf are having at least as much fun as their owners and one followed me last night with a ball in his mouth looking for a "throw."   The only structures for a while are a few Palapas like the one at right built for a little shade.

About a mile down is a small lagoon fed by cold water coming from the underground rivers.  You can see a bit of it at left.  The water stays deliciously cold until it merges with the sea. A few nights ago, I heard drumming and the call of a horn made from a conch shell.  There, gathered at the lagoon were about 50 locals participating in a ritual cleansing ceremony complete with feathers and smoke... and the Virgin Mary.  I was expecting a Budha, but it's a Catholic country after all. 

I waited 'till today to venture to Akumal,  Mayan for "Place of the Turtles,' since the beaches and the water there boil with humanity even on off-season weekends.  It does live up to its name.  My  turtle researcher friends first told me about it since they have been there often to count and tag the local green turtles that like the grassy patches there. It's a turtle sanctuary.

Before it got too stiflingly hot, I walked the two miles to catch the local version of what Ugandans would call a Matatu, but thank goodness the similarity ends there!  These are nice, new Toyota vans that  hold about 12 - 16 people and are the middle alternative between buses and Taxis that charge a round trip fee because they are regulated by district and can't pick up a return fare.   Because of that, they'll will wait up to a few hours for you if you choose, but that fare is about $55US.  The collectivo on the other hand charges about $3US, is air-conditioned and one leaves every 30 minutes!  For the budget minded-and that would be me-the collectivo is perfect.

The collectivo  drops its riders on the highway at the mouth of a pedestrian bridge that empties onto cobble-stone walkway into the town. You know you're getting close to the beach when the hawking of tours begins.  Luckily the dive shops rent gear, lockers and showers without requiring a guide or a tour.  What they do require is life jackets, so I paid my $15US, donned my life jacket and gear, stashed my loot and footed it to the water a little apprehensive about actually finding turtles, considering some of my previous water adventures.

This time the reports were true: by the time you're up to your chest in water you're in turtle territory. Find a dark grassy spot or a gaggle of snorkelers and you can be pretty well guaranteed turtles.  The water's a little murky because of the surge,  but I followed about 8 turtles around, mostly solitary, but some in pairs or a group.   There were a few real granddaddies out there - probably 2.5 to 3-feet long.   They forage on grass and periodically come up for a gulp of air and go about their business.  They really are beautiful and prehistoric looking and since it's shallow, they're very close.  Another plus were the sting-rays gliding along the bottom and a few schools of fish.   A real treat to be this close to these guys.

  

Swimming with the Sharks - Whale sharks that is

Swimming with the Whale Sharks was my one big splurge for this trip - and as splurges go it was worth it because these are endangered species and rumor has it that this is the last year that getting in the water with them will be allowed here.  I understand why after being part of the chaos that ensued as part of the process.  While I'm ever-so-glad I did it, it was frenetic. It's only after the fact that I can look back and realize what an amazing experience it was.  The reason it is so managed has to do with the balancing of government regulations with the need for tour operators to make a profit.   It's rather a classic example of the precarious relationship between the environment, profit and the man's insatiable hunger to experience something more. And this was definitely in the "something more" category.

More on the chaos in a minute,  but first - to these gorgeous, docile creatures who bear little resemblance to their toothier cousins - the Great White.   Tiburon Baleena in Spanish, these gentle giants are baleen or filter feeders and have no interest in people-eating. That's a good thing, since they have cavernous mouths that could easily swallow a man whole - giving credence to the myth of Jonah and the Whale.  It's hard to imagine the immensity of these fish: 47,000 pounds and the largest measured at 41 feet in length.  It's a bit daunting to be in the water with one of them, let alone a school of them.  So when I remembered that they migrate along the Yucatan coast from May - September, I knew I had to do this NOW.

At 6:15 AM I was the last in a van of ten to be picked up for the hour drive into Cancun, where I realized there were waaaay too many people going to do this.  We noshed on fruit, sweet breads and coffee - although in my typical pre-travel frame of mind, I woke up through the night, ultimately gave up on sleep at 4 AM (hold over from Uganda...) and had already fixed and eaten a real breakfast, packed a bag with camera, sea-sick meds and Sea-bands,  epi-Pen, mask and flippers, hat, sunblock, TP, kitchen sink and so-on by 5 AM.  Once in Cancun, we discovered we either had to wear life-jackets while snorkeling (bad-idea due to the bulk interfering with mobility and speed) or rent a wet suit for buoyancy and to accommodate insurance regs. Wanting the most from this experience I rented the wet suit...  a charming little number that took me back to the days of girdles. As a writhed and wriggled to get into it, I thanked God, Gloria Steinem  and the women's movement first  for panty hose and then for liberating us from such instruments of torture!    Once into the wetsuit I felt like a sausage ready for steaming - and the humidity and heat seemed up to the task.  

A total of 10 boats just with our tour company were headed out.  I lost count of how many others I saw loading up.  That's 10 boats, each with 10 people... do the math. That was the second reality check announcing that this would not be the Zen experience I had envisioned.  As we were the last of the boats to leave, it looked like the great Exodus as the boats spread across the horizon trailing deep wakes as we sped to open sea. The first task was to find where the sharks are feeding and in that respect it's a little like lion or elephant spotting on a Ugandan  safari.  An hour later (we were lucky) we arrived at a site with other boats who had found an unsuspecting loner.   Location depends on where the plankton is found and that depends on currents and water temperature. The waters of the Atlantic and Caribbean come together to make for ideal conditions just north of Isla de Mujeres so that's where we found them.  Sometimes the hunt goes on for hours before a pod is found.  In this picture, all those little spots in the background are food - plankton. I didn't have an underwater camera and frankly, had I had a one, the dive was so fast paced that I don't think I would have had the presence of mind to take pictures.  Government regulations require that you enter the water with a guide and no more than two people at a time can be with that guide.  The guide was helpful in part because it all happens so fast that if you don't have someone helping direct your focus and movement the first few times, the shark will be gone before you realize what happened.  The guides are also there to be sure divers respect the creatures, don't get too close, don't touch, etc.  Along with other rules like "no sunscreen" etc. to keep from introducing chemicals into the water they take in - these regs are to protect both fish and people. If you happen to be smacked by the tail of a 22 ton fish - well it's a caress you'll likely not forget. Anyway, all that humanity in the water clamoring to look at the same few creatures - has to stress the animals.  It also takes some of the pleasure out of the experience; but again, that fact fades into the noise when you consider what an extraordinary gift it is to be able to be in the water with primordial creatures.  Just amazing.

My first time in the water we were deposited   right at the mouth of the shark and the size of it is just mesmerizing making it almost impossible to get yourself moving to keep up with it.  Regardless of the fact that these are essentially  eaters of plankton and small fish, instinct takes over in the water and it literally takes your breath away to be near the open mouth of one of these fellas.  Note the relative size of the divers and the mouth.  While they move pretty slowly (about 2.4 miles an hour), it's a hustle to keep up with them.  Moving that speed on land is nothing, but in the water it takes some energy and if you want to swim along side, you've got to really got to put on the steam.  They are so beautiful and  showed absolutely no aggressiveness toward snorkelers.

Dives are managed in such a way as to give everyone on the boat a few times in the water.  While a few divers are in the water, others are waiting in the boat, recovering from their time below or sitting on the gunnels all gear up waiting to slide in for the next peek when others are climbing back into the boat. While you're just waiting, said boat is rocking and wallowing in that gyroscopic way that maximizes nausea.  As I mentioned, it wasn't the calm be-in-the-moment almost spiritual experience I'd hoped for - but I managed get through the miasma of nausea. I've lived on a boat - why didn't I remember this part!?  Must be a little like childbirth...  Oh yes - we were on a sailboat - not so prone to wallowing!

Why the rush to get people in and out, on and off?  The government regulates time in the area per boat - 3 hours - and they are clocked by call in times.  Combined with the rules dictating the ratio of divers/guide,  tour companies want to make money and keep costs low enough that folks will pay. Consequently, they fill up the boat instead of taking fewer people and charging more.  So there it is.  It reminds me of how fortunate we were all those years ago to experience the islands with just the kids and not a whole horde of other people - i.e. tourists.   Now - I'm one of those tourists - but still lucky to have the chance no matter what. 

Wasn't sure I would pull off a second dive as the boat motion was so intense while we were waiting, circling to pick up divers and find the next whale that my Sea-bands and two Dramamine couldn't keep up.  Misery...   except when in the water "your turn."   Determined to get the most out of this experience, I pulled it together and jumped back in.  That time in I found myself in a school  of sharks - and hundreds of smaller fish all feeding on plankton - everything and everyone going in different directions.   At one point I was directly over a shark and there were probably six other snorkelers within 6-inches to two feet of me all going in different directions with flippers kicking into other divers, dislodging face masks, etc.  Once again pretty chaotic, but balanced against the chance of a lifetime to be in the water with the largest known species of fish on the planet...  priceless.  

An extra perk of the trip was the presence of a couple of giant Manta Rays on the surface of the water - also enjoying a plankton feast.  The fin span was about 15 feet!

Just when I thought I'd reached the point of no return with seasickness,  we mercifully started heading back. Even the young ones on the boat were exhausted by the time we left. but by the time we reached Isla, where we were deposited for a little reef-snorkeling, we were back to normal.  Sadly, the reef was not terribly interesting - over diving having taken it's toll and all but killing the reef. With the exception of some stunning purple sea fans and a hand-full of fish,  it would have been a huge disappointment had it been the only snorkeling venue.   I'm SO glad I didn't spend money doing that while on Isla!  The Bahamas and Caymans still win the prize for the absolute best conditions, easiest access and largest variety of spectacular fish to date.  Really glad our family had the opportunity to experience that when decades ago.  It's getting harder to find healthy reef systems and those earlier dives will always be my benchmark.

So that's the story on Whale Sharks.  Don't know how I will top that before I go home.  May try to manifest a dive with sea turtles in the Tulum/Akumal area.  Now that time to leave is approaching, I am filled with a mixture of excitement over  going to Oregon and angst over getting the last bit of whatever from Mexico!  Here's to whatever!

To be continued...

Playing in Playa

Aaah - finally in Playa!  I caught the bus up from Bacalar last week and it rained all the way.  Got a taxi - in the rain - found the place - in the rain...  And it has been raining off and on every since.  Seems some disorganized system has been moving across the peninsula and while it has certainly kept the tour business depressed, I still LOVE being here.  I might feel differently if it were my only week, but having the month the rain is actually lovely.

Casa Maya Condo, Playa del Carmen

When Helen, the condo owner, was talking about her place, she mentioned the agent kept putting plastic flowers around the place, even after being told not too.  Then she mentioned that said agent was decorating one of the units in chartreuse!    When I walked into this place of understated-elegance, muted colors, beautiful local crafts and artwork I really thought I must have stepped into the wrong place, so prepared I was for plastic-flower-decorating!   Honestly, I was disoriented and it took me a minute to understand why. Made me realize again how "visual" I am:  having heard a description, I'd made it real in my mind's eye.  Whew - lovely surprise this one!  If you're looking for a place to getaway, this is a great value and a great place.   There are cheap flights into Cancun and from there, a short ride on an air-conditioned bus just blocks away from the condo!  I want to give this place a plug as a thank you for a fabulous month! Here's the link: http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p3768686#photos. 

First things first - get some food in here. I borrowed an umbrella and walked to the market, came back and reveled in a place of peace and tranquility.  I loved my time in the hostels and Bacalar,  meeting so many really wonderful people - some of whom I will remain in touch with in the future.  But sometimes, being anonymous - especially after two-plus years being in the fish bowl of Uganda is also fantastic.

It really is wonderful - one block from the quite end of the beach, good kitchen, lots of fans, pool. I walk the beach twice a day - early morning and dusk - more when it's overcast. A few nights ago I came upon the scene of about 20 men trying to hold a big twin-screw fishing rig in place and get it into position to get onto a trailer. It looked a little like some of those You-Tube fiascoes you see.    The cockpit was full of water and it was low tide so the slope was not making it easy to get anything done.  Seems they had underestimated the reef - probably having cleared it at high tide when the left in the morning and not calculating for  low tide ole in the fiberglass hull.  Ouch!    This operation had been going on a while before I got there and I stayed an hour to watch.  As it got dark, they had just barely gotten the bow a nudged onto the trailer. 

Next morning, the boat was still there but this time they'd removed the trailer and drag it out over  8"diameter metal rollers on the sand (think of moving stones to build the pyramids) but lacking slaves.  And someone had to stand guard over the boat all night to be sure the two monster  outboard motors were still attached in the morning. A crane truck waiting to hoist it onto a waiting trailer.  Not including the damage to the boat, it must have cost a bundle to just get it out of the water and onto the trailer.  It took me back 35 years living on a sailboat - a different creature - but a boat none-the-less. The definition of a boat as "a large hole in the water into which one throws money" came to mind... Sometimes it's good not to have a boat...

Anyway -  I've been walking the beach and the town - a lot!  The picture (left) is the walk north is quiet and away from the hard-body tourist area.  I love scoping out new places and since the only major place to shop and get meat is a couple of miles away, I get a lot of opportunity to do that.  Playa does live up to it reputation of being a tourist town, but it's possible to bypass some of it.  Avenida Cinco is the heart of shopping and the tour hawkers really have their banter tuned, but it's been good humored and fun, until you've had enough! Then you just find a different route to go places.  One oddity I noticed was the use of silver duct tape to hold road tiles in place  Not everywhere but often enough to hint that it's not an accident. Doesn't seem to be working, they're still moving. Ya gotta love duct tape...

There's a huge expat community and some of the merchants seem to think I live here.  I think it's because I'm wearing clothes....  I mean enough to cover the vital areas.  And I'm not holding a drink in my hands... dead giveaway.   Lots of dogs on leaches here - locals.  Well cared for pooches these. Such a contrast to Uganda.

If all this sounds too tame,  don't worry - I have not lost my taste for some adventure. Tomorrow I'm going swimming with the Whale Sharks!   More on that if I don't get scooped up in one of those gigantic mouths designed for plankton, but big enough for a person - whole!

That's about it.  More when there's anything worth reporting.  Looking forward to heading to Oregon, but am to get everything possible out of these last couple of weeks.   Might head back down to the Tulum area - there be Sea Turtles there!