Place of the Turtles - Akumal

 It's closing in on my last week in paradise and I'm grasping at ways to hold these times close and be present.  Surrounded by tourism as much of Yucatan is, sometimes I forget to simply close out the rest of the world and see where I'm standing. 

It's easy to get caught up in "what should I do next" and "what will I be sorry I didn't do when I look back." As in the rest of life, it can be a challenge to be fully present and filter out the background chatter. And on a tour, there's plenty of chatter. Last week I went on a snorkeling tour to Cozumel, supposedly the best-of-the-best in the Costa Maya.   As tours go, it was more relaxed than some, but still constrained. Sadly, there are so many tours and so much boat activity there, the reefs are dying and it was disappointing.  What is even worse is the fact that this area's economy depends on such activities and that very activity, badly handled is killing the reefs.    But there's the sense of "I'm HERE! I need to do it all." So I'm still glad I went and know what's there, but it was a reminder that you don't have to be IN the water, to be bowled over by what there is to see. 

Here, there is so much natural beauty about the sea it's just mind boggling.  I usually don't take my camera, because then I'm always taking a step back to try to get the perfect shop.  But then I realize, I don't have any pictures. So a few days ago I took a walk with my camera to capture my morning walk and here it is. 

I'm on the north end of the beach, the tail-end of the tourist district and it's pretty tranquil. That's a left turn when I get the sand and it's a world apart from what I see if I turn right where there are wall-to-wall hotels, bodies, beech chairs and music.  My end is more populated by the locals fishing, couples walking hand-in-hand and sand-covered toddlers squealing with delight.   Dogs cavorting in the surf are having at least as much fun as their owners and one followed me last night with a ball in his mouth looking for a "throw."   The only structures for a while are a few Palapas like the one at right built for a little shade.

About a mile down is a small lagoon fed by cold water coming from the underground rivers.  You can see a bit of it at left.  The water stays deliciously cold until it merges with the sea. A few nights ago, I heard drumming and the call of a horn made from a conch shell.  There, gathered at the lagoon were about 50 locals participating in a ritual cleansing ceremony complete with feathers and smoke... and the Virgin Mary.  I was expecting a Budha, but it's a Catholic country after all. 

I waited 'till today to venture to Akumal,  Mayan for "Place of the Turtles,' since the beaches and the water there boil with humanity even on off-season weekends.  It does live up to its name.  My  turtle researcher friends first told me about it since they have been there often to count and tag the local green turtles that like the grassy patches there. It's a turtle sanctuary.

Before it got too stiflingly hot, I walked the two miles to catch the local version of what Ugandans would call a Matatu, but thank goodness the similarity ends there!  These are nice, new Toyota vans that  hold about 12 - 16 people and are the middle alternative between buses and Taxis that charge a round trip fee because they are regulated by district and can't pick up a return fare.   Because of that, they'll will wait up to a few hours for you if you choose, but that fare is about $55US.  The collectivo on the other hand charges about $3US, is air-conditioned and one leaves every 30 minutes!  For the budget minded-and that would be me-the collectivo is perfect.

The collectivo  drops its riders on the highway at the mouth of a pedestrian bridge that empties onto cobble-stone walkway into the town. You know you're getting close to the beach when the hawking of tours begins.  Luckily the dive shops rent gear, lockers and showers without requiring a guide or a tour.  What they do require is life jackets, so I paid my $15US, donned my life jacket and gear, stashed my loot and footed it to the water a little apprehensive about actually finding turtles, considering some of my previous water adventures.

This time the reports were true: by the time you're up to your chest in water you're in turtle territory. Find a dark grassy spot or a gaggle of snorkelers and you can be pretty well guaranteed turtles.  The water's a little murky because of the surge,  but I followed about 8 turtles around, mostly solitary, but some in pairs or a group.   There were a few real granddaddies out there - probably 2.5 to 3-feet long.   They forage on grass and periodically come up for a gulp of air and go about their business.  They really are beautiful and prehistoric looking and since it's shallow, they're very close.  Another plus were the sting-rays gliding along the bottom and a few schools of fish.   A real treat to be this close to these guys.